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CardVault keeps track of the Magic: The Gathering cards you own, lets you build decks, and connects the two so you can see which cards a deck still needs. Card names, pictures, rules text, legality and prices come from Scryfall.

• Cards: search every printing of every card, and add to your wish list.
• Sets: browse sets and see how much of each you own.
• My Collection: everything you own. Add, edit, filter and sort here.
• Binders: named groups of your collection, like physical binders and boxes.
• Decks: build and check decks, and assign your copies to them.
• Lists: your Wish list and Trade list.
• Tags: your own labels for rows, and a manager to rename or merge them.

Card data is loaded by the import page (Admin → Import), which downloads Scryfall's card list. Run it the first time, and again whenever you want new sets, new prices or updated legality. Token lists on decks also need an import that is recent enough to include token information.

1. Open My Collection and press Add Cards.
2. Type the card's name and pick it from the suggestions. Every row you own for that card appears, plus a new row if you do not own it yet.
3. For each row set the printing, quantity, condition, finish and language. More shows flags (Signed, Artist Proof, Altered Art, Misprint), binder, tags and notes.
4. Press Save. Only rows you changed are saved.

The Defaults panel sets the starting set, condition, language and finish for new rows, which speeds up adding many cards from one set.

In the My Collection table, click the number in the Qty column, type the new number and press Enter. Escape cancels. Setting 0 removes the row after asking you to confirm. If copies of the row are in decks, the message names the decks and tells you how many copies will be taken out of them.

A row is one printing with one condition, finish, language, set of flags, binder and set of tags. If you edit rows so two become identical, they combine into one row and the quantities add. Copies assigned to decks follow the row that remains. Rows that differ only in tags stay separate.

1. Open a card in Add Cards, press More on the row, and type in the Tags box. Existing tags are suggested as you type.
2. Tags appear in the Tags column and can be used in Filters.
3. The Tags page lets you rename a tag, merge one tag into another, delete unused tags, and see which cards use a tag.

• Click a column heading to sort. The sort is remembered.
• Filters opens a panel where you combine conditions such as set, color, rarity, legality, binder, language and tag.
• Columns shows or hides columns, such as Price each, Binder and In decks. Your choice is remembered in this browser.

1. Open Binders and create one, or choose "+ New binder…" from any Binder box.
2. Set a row's binder in the row editor, or tick rows in the My Collection table and use the Move to bar that appears.
3. Use the Binder switch above the table to view one binder, "No binder", or the whole collection.

A binder is just a way of grouping; your whole collection is always the sum of all binders. Cards stay in their binder when they are assigned to a deck.

1. Open Decks, enter a name and a format, and create it.
2. Use the Add a card box: type a name, pick the quantity and the section, and press Add.
3. Or open the paste box and paste a list such as 4 Lightning Bolt or 1 Sol Ring (CMM) 400. Lines under a header like Sideboard or starting with SB: go to that section. Tick "keep printings" to use the set and number you pasted.
4. Use + and − on a card to change the count. The ⋯ menu moves it to another section, changes its printing, sets a category, or removes it.

Press View options. Views switch between text lists and picture layouts (grid, stacks, split stacks, spoiler). Group organizes the main deck by type, subtype, tag, color, color identity, mana value, rarity, set or artist. Sort orders cards inside each group, ascending or descending. You can also show mana cost, price, set code and the ownership badges. Your choices are remembered.

If you have not chosen a particular printing, the deck shows the newest paper printing and uses its price. Choose Change printing… in the card's menu to pick a specific one. If you assign a copy from your collection, the deck shows that copy's printing and price instead.

1. On the deck page, press Auto-assign owned copies to fill every line from copies you own (the exact printing is preferred), or click a card's badge to choose copies yourself in the Owned copies window.
2. In that window, use + and − next to each row of your collection. It shows condition, finish, binder, and which other decks are already using copies.
3. Clear assignments releases all of the deck's copies.

A physical copy can be in only one deck. Assigning does not move it out of its binder; it is only marked as used. The My Collection table's In decks column shows where each row is used.

• ✓ Every copy the deck needs is assigned from your collection.
• 2/3 Some copies are assigned (here 2 of 3).
• own You own the card but none is assigned yet.
• ✗ You do not own it, or all your copies are in other decks.
• ! The deck check found a problem with this card. Hover to read it.

Turn the badges on or off with Owned in View options.

The box above the list compares the deck to its format's rules. It checks deck size, copy limits, banned or illegal cards, the commander or Oathbreaker and signature spell, and color identity. Green means the deck follows the rules. Red lists problems, yellow lists warnings. Cards in Considering are ignored. Legality comes from Scryfall's data, so it is only as current as your last card import.

1. Press Export on the deck page.
2. Pick a format: plain list, with set and number, MTG Arena, or Magic Online. Tick Include the Considering section if you want it.
3. Press Copy or Download .txt.

Press Edit details on the deck page and use Delete this deck. Your collection is not changed; the copies that were assigned become free again.

1. Add cards with + Wish on the Cards page, the + on a set page, Add all missing to wish list on a set page, or the box on a card's page.
2. An entry can be a specific printing or any printing, with an optional finish, minimum condition and language.
3. Change the quantity with − and +, or type it. Use Remove to delete an entry.

Your own entries do not look at what you own.

Shaded rows with a deck name in the For deck column are cards your decks still need. They are worked out each time you open the page: the deck's quantity, minus copies assigned, minus copies you own that are not used elsewhere. Basic lands are never listed. They update on their own as you assign copies or edit the deck.

• Use the For deck filter to show only deck cards or hide them.
• To stop a deck from listing its missing cards, untick Show cards I do not own on my wish list in the deck's Edit details.
• The quantity box on these rows is locked because the deck sets it. Press + to add your own separate entry for extra copies; it appears as its own row that you can edit or remove.

Open the Tokens section on the deck page and press Add these tokens to my wish list. Each token is added once, as the printing shown. Tokens already on your list are skipped.

In a row's editor, set For trade to how many copies of that row you would trade (never more than the quantity). The Trade list page then lists them with their value. The count does not change which rows combine.

Scryfall supplies USD prices for non-foil, foil and etched cards, refreshed each time you run the import. Proxy copies are always $0.00. A card with no price on file shows a dash, and totals say when some cards are unpriced.

If the row had copies assigned to a deck, those copies are taken out of the deck and you get a notice naming the decks. The deck itself keeps the card; it just becomes "not owned" again, and it may appear on your wish list.

A deck can list any card, owned or not. But a physical copy can be assigned to only one deck. If you own two copies, you can assign one to each of two decks. Otherwise the second deck shows the card as not owned and may add it to your wish list.

That is fine. Ownership matches the card, not the printing. Assign your copy and the deck will switch to showing that copy's printing and price.

The check uses Scryfall's legality data for the deck's format. Rules and banned lists change; run the card import to update them. If the deck's format is set to "Casual / no format" there is no check.

The import lists names it could not match so you can fix them. Check spelling, use the card's full name (for two-faced cards the front face is enough), and make sure the card import has been run. Tokens, emblems and art cards are never matched as regular cards.

Statistics count the main deck and command zone only. The price total shows the main deck and command zone, and also a figure that includes the sideboard.

Sort order, deck view options and column choices are remembered in your browser, so a different browser or device starts with the defaults. Your collection, decks, binders, tags and lists are saved on the server.

Multiplayer singleton, led by a legendary commander.

• Exactly 100 cards, command zone included.
• 1 copy of each card (singleton), except basic lands and cards that say otherwise.
• No sideboard.
• A commander in the Commander section. Every other card must fit its color identity.

Usually four players, 40 starting life. Your commander starts in the command zone and can be cast from there, costing 2 more for each earlier time you cast it. A player who takes 21 combat damage from one commander loses. Every card must fit your commander's color identity, and you may have only one copy of any card except basic lands.

Singleton with a planeswalker and a signature spell.

• Exactly 60 cards, command zone included.
• 1 copy of each card (singleton), except basic lands and cards that say otherwise.
• No sideboard.
• One planeswalker in the Oathbreaker section and one Instant or Sorcery in the Signature spell section.

Your deck is a planeswalker (the Oathbreaker), one Instant or Sorcery (the signature spell) and 58 other cards. The Oathbreaker can be cast from the command zone. The signature spell can be cast from the command zone only while your Oathbreaker is on the battlefield. Both follow the color identity of the Oathbreaker, and extra casts cost 2 more each time. Usually 20 starting life.

Commander for two players, with its own ban list.

• Exactly 100 cards, command zone included.
• 1 copy of each card (singleton), except basic lands and cards that say otherwise.
• No sideboard.
• A commander in the Commander section. Every other card must fit its color identity.

Same shape as Commander (100 cards, singleton, color identity) but played one-on-one with 20 starting life. It uses its own banned list, so a card can be fine in Commander and banned here.

Commander built from commons.

• Exactly 100 cards, command zone included.
• 1 copy of each card (singleton), except basic lands and cards that say otherwise.
• No sideboard.
• A commander in the Commander section. Every other card must fit its color identity.

The 99 other cards are commons. Your commander may be an uncommon creature. The usual Commander rules apply (singleton, color identity, command zone).

A Standard-card take on Commander.

• Exactly 60 cards, command zone included.
• 1 copy of each card (singleton), except basic lands and cards that say otherwise.
• No sideboard.
• A commander in the Commander section. Every other card must fit its color identity.

60 cards, singleton, led by a legendary creature or planeswalker, using cards that are legal in Standard. Usually 25 starting life in two-player games and 30 in multiplayer.

Two-player Brawl.

• Exactly 60 cards, command zone included.
• 1 copy of each card (singleton), except basic lands and cards that say otherwise.
• No sideboard.
• A commander in the Commander section. Every other card must fit its color identity.

The same deck rules as Brawl, played one-on-one.

The newest sets only; they rotate out over time.

• At least 60 cards in the main deck.
• Up to 4 copies of each card, except basic lands and cards that say otherwise.
• Sideboard of up to 15 cards.

A 60-card deck with up to 4 copies of a card and a sideboard of up to 15. Legal cards are limited to recent sets, so which cards are allowed changes whenever sets rotate.

Cards from Return to Ravnica (2012) onward.

• At least 60 cards in the main deck.
• Up to 4 copies of each card, except basic lands and cards that say otherwise.
• Sideboard of up to 15 cards.

A 60-card deck with up to 4 copies of a card and a 15-card sideboard. Has its own banned list.

Cards from 8th Edition and Mirrodin (2003) onward.

• At least 60 cards in the main deck.
• Up to 4 copies of each card, except basic lands and cards that say otherwise.
• Sideboard of up to 15 cards.

A 60-card deck with up to 4 copies of a card and a 15-card sideboard. Has its own banned list.

Almost every card ever printed, with a banned list.

• At least 60 cards in the main deck.
• Up to 4 copies of each card, except basic lands and cards that say otherwise.
• Sideboard of up to 15 cards.

A 60-card deck with up to 4 copies of a card and a 15-card sideboard. A long banned list keeps the most extreme cards out.

Every card, with a restricted list.

• At least 60 cards in the main deck.
• Up to 4 copies of each card, except basic lands and cards that say otherwise.
• Sideboard of up to 15 cards.

A 60-card deck, 15-card sideboard, 4 copies of most cards. A short list of very powerful cards is restricted to 1 copy, and a few are banned.

Only cards that have been printed at common.

• At least 60 cards in the main deck.
• Up to 4 copies of each card, except basic lands and cards that say otherwise.
• Sideboard of up to 15 cards.

A 60-card deck with up to 4 copies of a card and a 15-card sideboard. Banned list applies.

An Arena format with a large card pool.

• At least 60 cards in the main deck.
• Up to 4 copies of each card, except basic lands and cards that say otherwise.
• Sideboard of up to 15 cards.

A 60-card deck, up to 4 copies, 15-card sideboard, using the cards the Arena version of Historic allows.

An Arena format with the largest Arena pool.

• At least 60 cards in the main deck.
• Up to 4 copies of each card, except basic lands and cards that say otherwise.
• Sideboard of up to 15 cards.

Like Historic but with far fewer bans. 60 cards, up to 4 copies, 15-card sideboard.

An Arena format that includes digital-only cards.

• At least 60 cards in the main deck.
• Up to 4 copies of each card, except basic lands and cards that say otherwise.
• Sideboard of up to 15 cards.

Standard-style card pool plus cards made only for Arena. 60 cards, up to 4 copies, 15-card sideboard.

A fan format for cards from the late 1990s to early 2000s.

• At least 60 cards in the main deck.
• Up to 4 copies of each card, except basic lands and cards that say otherwise.
• Sideboard of up to 15 cards.

Uses cards from 4th Edition through Scourge. 60 cards, up to 4 copies, 15-card sideboard. Community-run, so it is not an official format.

A fan format that uses only the very first sets.

• At least 60 cards in the main deck.
• Up to 4 copies of each card, except basic lands and cards that say otherwise.
• Sideboard of up to 15 cards.

The oldest cards only. 60 cards with a short list of restricted cards. Community-run, so it is not an official format; the site follows the legality data it receives.

A budget format built from the cheapest cards.

• At least 60 cards in the main deck.
• Up to 4 copies of each card, except basic lands and cards that say otherwise.
• Sideboard of up to 15 cards.

Only cards on the current Penny Dreadful list are allowed (cards that are very cheap online). 60 cards, up to 4 copies, 15-card sideboard. The list changes often.

Use this for decks that follow house rules. Nothing is checked, and every section is available.

• Basic lands: any number.
• Cards that say "A deck can have any number of cards named…" (for example Relentless Rats): any number.
• Cards that say "up to seven" or "up to nine" cards named (Seven Dwarves, Nazgûl): that many.
• Vintage: cards on the restricted list are limited to 1 copy.

The colors in a card's mana cost and in its rules text, including color indicators. In command zone formats a deck may only contain cards whose color identity fits inside the commander's. Colorless cards fit any deck.

A special area where commanders (and in Oathbreaker, the Oathbreaker and signature spell) wait. They can be cast from there, and each earlier cast makes the next one cost 2 more.

No more than one copy of each card by name, other than basic lands and a few special cards.

The mainboard is the deck you play. The sideboard holds extra cards for constructed formats. Considering is a scratch area for ideas: it is not counted in statistics or the Deck check, and never adds to your wish list.

A game piece made by a card, such as a 1/1 Soldier. The Tokens section on a deck lists the tokens the deck's cards can create.

Finish is non-foil, foil or etched. Condition runs from Mint to Poor. A Proxy is a stand-in copy; it is valued at $0.00.